Verde en Julio, Ying Yang This

In June, I visited the Franz Mayer Museum in Mexico City. Franz Mayer was a German born financier who came to Mexico City in 1905 at the age of 21. He quickly built an impressive amount of wealth, which he in turn used to compile an amazing collection of art and sculptures.

When he died in 1976, he left behind a special trust to administer his collection as a gift to the people of Mexico. Ten years later, the museum he envisioned became a reality and opened its doors in Mexico City. The Franz Mayer Museum now welcomes thousands of visitors from all over Mexico and around the world. It is located less than a block away from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and across the street from the Alameda Central Park. http://www.franzmayer.org.mx/

During my visit, the museum was featuring the work of one of Mexico's most renowned ceramic artists, Gustavo Perez. The show titled "Mirada Retrospectiva" showcased Perez's most innovative work.

I enjoyed this piece because of its strong green, and its ying yang reference.  

The Concha Bamba Brotherhood

When I stepped out of the Turq, now free from sand, I took a deep breath and recalled how lucky we had been. Josh, Dave and I decided to come to playa Concha Bamba on a whim.

It was one of those unplanned detours that define a road trip. Places where even Lonely Planet has not been. Where tourists are aliens to the environment, where Hard Rock Cafes only dream of sprouting. We were amazed with Concha Bamba's desolate nature, away from everything and yet so central to our humanity.

A place where the Pacific Ocean, the Oaxacan countryside, and the cloud-filled sky swerve to a dance choreographed by the moon and the sun.

Thank you El Padrino and the Concha Bamba Pescadores Crew.

Steve Zissou would be proud. If only we had uniforms. http://lifeaquatic.movies.go.com/main.html

As a token of our appreciation, we left them with a nice bottle of Bacardi rum and $200 pesos. The beach turned into an ocean jubilee when they all learned of our gift. Dave asked to be left behind, and Josh and I were really tempted. We had witnessed one of humanity's best moments, when complete strangers come to the rescue of each other for no expected compensation.

Viva Playa Concha Bamba.

 

El Padrino de Concha Bamba

Before we could count them all, we were surrounded by many of the Concha Bamba fishermen crew, ranging in ages from 8 to 65 years old. They looked around, inside and under the Turq. They approached the Turq as if he were a trapped animal and they were all part of a National Geographic rescue team. Some of the younger ones started digging underneath the Turq immediately, while the older ones took their time surveying the situation.

This is when Dave, Josh and I saw an older man on crutches approaching the Turq. He was the oldest of the crew. He took his time as we walked towards the Turq. He stared at it and began lauging out loud. He surveyed the situation and told everyone to stop what they were doing. We would later decide to call him El Padrino of Concha Bamba, for his Godfather-like status and image.

Recognizing his authority, I immediately approached him, shook his hand, and introduced myself as the Turq's representative. He shook his head, laughed out loud again, and told me that he had seen us drive onto the beach area.

El Padrino told me that had I parked the Turq a couple feet back, I would have had no problem getting out. But he told me that my mistake was getting too greedy...trying to park the Turq right on the edge. Too close, he whispered. But he quickly ushered me to the side...gave out some more instructions...and soon enough, we had two wooden boards behind each tire.

El Padrino didn't care too much about how the Turq got there, he was more concerned with getting it out. He was the commander-in-chief for Concha Bamba Beach, Oaxaca. He seemed to be the father-like figure for all these young fishermen, whose actual fathers were likely working in the kitchens of Manhattan restaurants, Kentucky ham factories or California lettuce fields. He was the alpha male of Concha Bamba, that although crippled, maintained his authority and respect. His sage advice had likely kept his beach village from falling into the Pacific Ocean many a times.

On that day in June, El Padrino responded to yet another call for help. But not for his village, but for two New Yorkers and one Angeleno.

Once the wooden path was put in place over the carved out sand, the Concha Bamba Padrino told me to reverse slowly but with force.

I nervously got inside the Turq, turned the ignition key, and nothing happened. Everyone looked at me with disbelief. I frantically tried to tell a joke...and I feared that my nervous laugh revealed my loss of control. I told Dave that the car was not starting. And he pointed out that the car was on neutral, and that I should put it back on park.

This was no time for teasing or for feeling embarrassed. It was "showtime," and I owed it to El Padrino and to his staff, the dozen or so guys helping us out to maintain my cool. I could feel the sand on my toes, the roughness of the steering wheel, and the moisture becoming sweat on my forehead.

I thought to myself, if this doesn't work, everyone will have to dig for another half hour. I had to make the reverse escape plan work. The Turq was counting on it. Josh and Dave, without knowing any Spanish also realized the pressure before us.

We needed to make this plan work. The Turq was our vessel. Our road trip depended on it. The Turq had brought us this far, and were only halfway to our Chiapas destination point. Our detour had become our greatest challenge.

But I knew we were in great hands. El Padrino looked at me as if telling me with his tired eyes, this WILL work.

I inhaled and told everyone that I would count from 1 to 4 in Spanish. At four, I would reverse the Turq back to freedom.

Uno. Dos. Tres.

Cuatro. I turned the key, the Turq started, and I put it on Reverse. I gave the Turq the gas it needed and back I went. To freedom, to escape, to no more sand. Everyone cheered and I could hear whistles all around. We had done it.

I pulled back and drove about 20 feet away from the place where the Turq had been stuck. Josh was yelling at me to stop. I stopped the car, and looked back to see this image of everyone who made this moment happen.

I went from thinking that the Turq was toast, to realizing that the Turq had just been rescued by the best beach crew I had ever seen. El Padrino and his band of brothers, cousins and amigos was indicative of this part of the world. People living on the ocean, taking one moment at a time. Fishing for food, for each other and for life in general. They helped us without asking for any compensation, or any blame for how we got into that situation to begin with. This was their playa, their beach. And we were glad to have them share Concha Bamba with us, if only for a day.

 

Concha Bamba Pescadores

We decided to find some rocks to place under the front tires to give the Turq some traction. We tried doing this for about half an hour, and the Turq just kept sinking. At this point, when I looked around and the Concha Beach seemed deserted, I thought to myself, what I am going to do if the tide gets closer? Do I really want to see the Turq get pulled into the Pacific Ocean? Is this really how it is going to end?

This is when two young boys showed up after they saw the commotion from afar. At first, I was surprised to learn that they had been quietly fishing on the other side of the cove. Concha Bamba beach was their home. These guys were incredibly friendly, and I quickly realized that things were going to get better.

In time, these kids started shouting towards the hills and the brush behind us. This is when Josh and Dave looked to me to figure out what they were saying. Josh and Dave speak no Spanish, so it was up to me to keep everyone informed when dealing with the locals. Josh and Dave were definitely not comforted when I told them that I could only understand some words that these kids were saying. Despite being fluent in Spanish, these kids were shouting some indigenous dialect words into the mountains, and I could not catch all of it. But we decided to trust them, as they told us to keep diggin under the tires.

Here, Josh starts digging sand from under the Turq with his hands. The two Concha boys look on, as Dave and I wait to see what is moving in the bushes behind us.

 

Quicksand by the Beach

After a couple hours of enjoying Concha Bamba beach, we decided to move the Turq to a better spot on the other side of the Concha bay. But as soon as we tried to move the Turq, its front wheels only got deeper into the sand. Before we knew it, we realized that we were stuck. I snapped this picture of Dave, as he futily attempted to move the Turq. What were we going to do now in the middle of nowhere and with the ocean tide rising?  

The Concha Bamba Symphony

When we arrived at Concha Bamba beach, there was no one in sight. The beach reminded us of so many movie references, from science fiction to adventure type genres. Concha Bamba beach is one of those places on earth that makes you feel small, small in front of a moving earth, with all its forces working above, underneath, in front and behind you. The magical sounds of the Pacific Ocean building its half moon bay here are gentle, crisp and melodic. But we would later discover that we were not alone here.  

Turq & Sand Don't Mix

I took this road trip with my friends Josh and Dave. We had an ambitious and demanding itinerary before us. We embarked from Mexico City, headed south to Acapulco, Guerrero, and then moved our way down the coast to Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca. As we were driving in the Oaxacan highlands by the sea on our way to Chiapas, we saw this beach from the road, and we knew that a detour was a must. We took the dirt road off the main highway and headed towards the ocean. Dave took this photo minutes after I parked the Turq by the beach. Unbeknownst to them, I had realized once I removed the key from the ignition that the Turq had sunk into the sand, just enough to make me worried about how we would get it out. But I decided to focus on the beauty and the glory of Concha Bamba beach. Hours later, when we tried to move the Turq, the real adventure would begin.  

Playa Concha Bamba

There are many beaches on this planet. And I have visited my fair share of some of them. But only one has really blown me away as much as this one, Concepcion Bamba in southern Oaxaca. Concha Bamba beach is about two hours south of Huatulco on the road to Chiapas. The landscape around this beach is breathtaking. To your left is the lower part of a beautiful mountain ridge, that as it approaches the Pacific Ocean behind me, turns into a massive sand dune. Witnessing the geological transformation of the Mexican earth as it meets the Pacific Ocean is beyond mystical. The water is warm, and incredibly clear. I drove the Turq, my 1995 Honda coupe, onto this beach, about 5 miles on a dirt road from the main highway referenced above. Concha Bamba has set a new standard for me.  

Teotihuacan Times

My brother Danny visited me in Mexico City last March. While there, we went on a very ambitious roadtrip, starting from Cuernavaca to Acapulco, then driving down the Pacific coast to Puerto Escondido, then Huatulco, and then up the Oaxacan mountain ridge to Oaxaca City. After bypassing the City of Puebla, we visited the Pyramids of Teotihuacan, just 20 minutes from Mexico City.

Here, Dan and I are standing on top of the Pyramid of the Sun. Mexico has so much to offer. It is rich in history and traditions. Its ancient past is just one of the many jewels you will find south of the border.  

Esther before Ahasuerus

Speaking of great New York City museums, the Metropolitan Museum of Art is one of the best in the world. The Met was a place where I would visit, with The Economist in hand, every Friday when I was a graduate student at Columbia University. This museum has such an amazing collection of modern, contemporary and historical art and sculptures that there is something there for everyone.

Here is an Italian painting depicting the famous Old Testament scene from the Book of Esther. I like this painting because when my parents visited the Met, my mother was very impressed with this piece.

The painting recounts the story of the Jewish heroine Esther, who appeared before King Ahasuerus of Persia to plead for her people, thus breaking court etiquette and risking death. She fainted in his presence, but her request found favor. Title: Esther before Ahasuerus, by Artemisia Gentileschi (Italian, Roman, 1593–1651/53). The Met information page: http://www.metmuseum.org/ 

Shoot the Rhinos

This week the temperatures across the country have been warm, actually extremely hot. In fact, many cities are breaking their summer temperature records. A couple weeks ago, my cousin from Villahermosa, Tabasco was visiting Los Angeles. My brother Danny and I took her to Exposition Park, near USC (University of Southern California). Exposition Park is an outdoor plaza surrounded by a variety of museums and science centers.

Some of these institutions were developed and built in Los Angeles for the 1984 Olympics. For those that do not know, the 1984 Olympics were the first Olympics to turn a profit.

While visiting the California Science Center, one of such museums in Exposition Park, my cousin Goretti, Danny and I saw an African IMAX film about the five big game giants of the continent. I was very impressed with the footage of the African white rhino, and their constant struggle against extinction. It is amazing that such an animal can be so physically strong and powerful, but yet so defenseless against man. With our guns, most animals have no chance against us.

I took this picture at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City last March. If you ever visit NYC, make sure to stop by some of the city's great museums. You will not be disappointed. This museum is on the Upper West Side at Central Park West and 79th Street. And if you decide to shoot the rhinos, make sure it's only with your digital camera.  

Manos de Ayuda

During my Fulbright in Mexico City, I worked as an in house counsel lawyer for a multinational corporation. I was fortunate to participate in one of the company's many pro bono opportunities. Every Saturday morning, several company employees would purchase food at a local supermarket and drive to one of the low income slums in the city. In this picture, my colleague and I purchased eggs, bread, orange juice, etc. to feed over 150 children for a program titled Manos de Ayuda. Manos de Ayuda teams up Mexican companies with non-profit centers in extremely poor areas that often lack running water and electricity.

On this particular morning, we visited children that lived next to one of the city's worst landfills. Many of these children's parents worked on the landfill sorting trash and collecting recyclable items. Manos de Ayuda is linked to a Protestant organization in Oregon, USA.  

Fertile Parking Grounds

Many anthropologists and archaeologists look to old stones and historical structures to find evidence of various themes, including fertility. Well, for those of us looking for a parking space in some Mexico City supermarkets, we had to drive another lap because the best spots were reserved for mothers-to-be. This outright preference for pregnant customers is one way to signal and promote fertility, maternity and family growth. Even disabled folks take a back seat to pregnant mothers south of the border.  

Nobody Walks in LA

Summer time in summer land. Today I took off on a quick roadtrip with my parents and my sister's family to Santa Barbara. We visited the Queen of the Missions, and then headed off to Goleta Beach. The weather was awesome, and the beach was not too crowded, just perfect for a quick dip in the oceano Pacifico on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

Santa Barbara is only a two hour drive from the Los Angeles metropolitan area. And since we live in So Cal, we appreciate car culture like no other region in the world. This mural is indicative of the So Cal "automobile appreciative cultura." It is located in Downtown LA on the right-hand shoulder of the 101 Freeway heading North towards Hollywood.

Public art is meant to be this accessible...directly from your car. Only in LA can you roll down your window and get some arte delivered to your gas guzzler. Pump on.  

The Laredo Challenge

July is quickly winding down, and I have yet to be back in the U.S. for more than a month, but I already feel quite at home in southern Cali. Here is a picture taken in Laredo, Texas. My flatmates and I drove from Mexico City, and when we crossed into Texas, let's just say that we were glad to be on the north side of the Rio Grand. My Fulbright officially ended when I crossed into the Lone Star republic. And then my new mission began...how to get out of Texas as soon as possible! Fortunately for me, the Turq was right by my side. Not only did it deliver me to Cali safely, but in style, with the windows down and the FM radio playing.  

La Cueva del Cangrejo

Coyoacan is a very tranquil colonial suburb of Mexico City. Coyoacan is an attractive option on any Sunday afternoon because its main square offers great arts and crafts, superb food and prime girl watching territory. Expats and locals flock to this main square, and we always enjoyed the selection. Here, my two flatmates, Dario and Jeff were joined by Arinze, who came up for the weekend from Cuerna. We were happy to introduce him to La Cueva del Cangrejo, quite possibly the best Coyoacan has to offer in terms of shark quesadillas and micheladas. Salud.  

Wedding Crashers

Wedding crashers come in different forms, sizes and levels of aggression. Here, during our friend Jorge�s wedding in DC, my friend Pang and I were ready to crash more than just the wedding! We were just getting started with our demolition strategy when things got out of control! Many of my friends are starting to get hitched and the best part are the awesome wedding parties I get to crash!  

Are there Fjords in Guanajuato?

The Cervantino Festival is a mega arts fiesta that takes place in the city of Guanajuato, an amazing colonial city about 4 hours north of Mexico City. This International Festival of theater, art, music and culture attracts a very diverse crowd from all over the world. Here, my flatmate and I enjoyed a nice balcony view with some Norwegian girls. They started off very anti-American, but in time we got them to sing some American songs for us! The Cervantino takes place every October in Guanajuato.  

Coyoacan After Dark

Mexico City fiestas are always divided along geographic lines. Here, we are partying in the Zona Sur in Coyoacan. The South was great for us because we lived in Pedregal, also in the South. And outdoor parties in places like Coyoacan are swell, anytime of the year. In this pic, we are celebrating a housewarming for some friends from Los Mochis, Sinaloa! Arriba el Norte!  

The Main Three

This is a wood carved portrait of a typical rural Mexican family. This art piece is located on the 2nd floor of the National Anthropology Museum in Mexico City. Simple renditions of the basic nuclear family are great reminders of the fundamental building blocks within our social networks. In fact, often in our modern existence, where business cards are constantly being exchanged and where conversations about six degrees of separation dominate Starbucks cafes, it is important to recall the relationship between the main three, your father, mother and you. Review how each parent´s X and Y chromosomes come together to give you your DNA and genetic map. Before deconstructing the world, try deconstructing yourself. Keep it simple, and then build on it.  

Gallo Time in the LBC

These two cool cats were my flatmates (at different times) way back during my days in the hills of Westwood. Juanster and Hurricane put up with their fair share of shared living angst! Although Hurricane never lived with me at the Midvale Mansion, he held the highly coveted annual VIP pass, that has been subsequently upgraded to the lifetime membership level! My only request to Hurricane is please no more KROQ Kevin & Bean morning shows! Here we are at The Yardhouse in Long Beach during one of our many post-UCLA summer reunions!  

The Yardhouse Heatwave

This is a picture of my friend Stacy taken 11 months ago at The Yardhouse in Long Beach. She was fanning herself seconds after her boyfriend Hurricane mentioned to our group of friends that he planned to take a big step in their relationship within the next year. I am glad to report that Hurricane did not disappoint. He proposed to Stacy this past 4th of July in Vegas. Everyone I know is very happy for this awesome power couple! Congratulations Stacy! It is only fitting that we all revisit the scene where this promise was made...and toast again...this time to congratulate them both on their summer engagement.  

Goldie

This is Goldie, our Japanese Akita pet for almost five years. She is no longer with us. She had a great life in our backyard and around the neighborhood. She will be missed. I am glad to put her picture on the Internet so that those that heard of her can finally see for themselves how beautiful she was. 

The Vacuum Ordeal

These are the original roomies in Mexico City. Amy is from Glasgow, Scotland and Dario is from El Paso, Texas. Here they are standing in front of Nancy�s apartment who was kind enough to let us borrow a vacuum cleaner. Too bad it didn�t work when we got back home. 

Smokin

There are many bars in Manhattan. But not all of them have a pair of red lipstick colored ones smoking some tobacco. I visited this bar last March while passing through NYC. My friends and I sat in front of this pair of lips as we all relaxed on a chilly Tuesday night. The next morning I flew back to Mexico City. And this was the last picture on my Casio digital camera. The irony is that smoking indoors had been banned in Manhattan by then.