Puebla de los Angeles

A couple weeks ago, I took a roadtrip with Mary, a fellow Fulbrighter from Oregon. Mary is cool for many reasons, but our initial connection was that her grandmother is from East LA, my neck of the woods. So we decide to embark on a short weekend trip to Puebla de los Angeles, better known as Puebla, in the state of, yes, Puebla. We arrived with very reserved expectations, mainly concerned with exiting Mexico City. I had driven by Puebla on two occasions, but both visits were very abrupt and did not do this lovely colonial jewel of a city any justice. I would pump some gas, or buy some pan dulce from El Globo, and get back on the highway. But this would change on my 3rd opportunity. And Puebla would really deliver the third time around.

For starters, the weather in Puebla was a nice change from the very smoggy Distrito Federal. As Mary and I drove into the historic center, we were suddenly surrounded by incredible colonial architecture, stunningly lit church towers, and an emerald urban garden in the Zocalo. Our first drive around the Zocalo inspired us to park the Turq, my Honda Accord coupe, as soon as possible to give us the opportunity to walk around and enjoy a Friday evening stroll around the city. It seemed as if everyone and their mom was out walking through the Zocalo, shopping, and eating on the street. Mary and I quickly realized that some ice cream was in order. As we ordered ice cream from the female version of the Seinfeld sitcom inspired soup nazi, we realized we had made the right decision in coming to Puebla, and that the remaining attractions were going to be a treat.

People in Puebla were extremely nice and super helpful. Puebla is a very safe city by all standards, despite its 1 million plus population. We stayed at the Hotel La Fuente, a yellow three story colonial structure on Eje 3 Poniente. The manager really lived up to any 4 star hotel standard by way of his modesty, and plain old niceness.

The following day we enjoyed a Spanish play, whose main audience included local high school students. The play was enjoyable and for a matinee performance, the cast gave it 110%. Despite the often rowdy high school crowd, Mary and I each enjoyed a bag of peanut M&Ms accompanied by a cold bottle of the local water provider.

We visited various museums, including the Museo Amparo. This museum had an amazing combination of contemporary artwork, archeological jewels, and a worthy collection of colonial era artifacts. (http://www.museoamparo.com/indexi.html) Do yourself a favor and visit this museum, and don´t forget to bring a copy of The Economist as you enjoy one of the many interior colonial courtyards, flanked by amazing sculptures and performance art pieces.

I would be worthy of some form of cruel and unusual punishment if I failed to mention that we also ate the Fonda de Santa Clara, arguably the best site for those seeking the best of mole, Puebla´s unique contribution to the culinary world. And boy, did this restaurant deliver amazing mole! Check out this website for a history of mole and a recap of Puebla history. http://www.fondadesantaclara.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=4

In short, the Puebla weekend escapade was one of the best I have taken in Mexico. What is most amazing is that Puebla is only about 1.5 hours from Mexico City. Despite its close proximity, the city of Puebla is a world away from the megalopolis that is Mexico City. Puebla´s live music scene and very alive night life, make this colonial city a must visit for any traveler looking for a colonial escape to the past.